Episode 4: Fashion and Design

EP4_ Fashion and Design

Anne Cassuto (Host)

[00:00:05] Hello everyone, and welcome back to this new episode of our Trash to Treasure Podcasts series on Green jobs.

I’m Anne Cassuto from the Ayamola organisation in Barcelona.

In today’s episode, we’ll dive into Upcycling Fashion, the creative antidote to fast fashion, where distinctive designs coexist with ethical values.

 [00:00:28] We’ll step into the world of Catalan designer Sylvia Calvo, the visionary behind the eco-friendly brand “Sylvia Calvo BCN”, which transforms waste from the coffee industry into stylish handcrafted clothing.

Through her singular blend of creativity, innovation, and environmental awareness, we’ll explore how design and sustainability come together to reshape the future of fashion.

Sylvia Calvo

[00:00:57] By developing, my main issue is not to do the item, but how I do the items.

Anne Cassuto (Host)

[00:01:08] Curious to see how something as ordinary as a coffee bag can become a stunning dress? Stay tuned to find out!

So before we explore what upcycling fashion is, let's take a moment to zoom out and look at fashion itself. Fashion isn’t just clothing; it’s a language without words, pure self-expression, culture in motion

[00:01:41] Just look around…Every generation has left its mark, from the rebellious jeans of the 1950s to whatever you’re wearing today, and none of it is accidental. 

In fact, Fashion mirrors the world around us. When society shifts, our clothing changes with it, turning fashion into a visible expression of identity, political ideas and social norms.

[00:02:06] To understand where upcycling stands today, let's trace part of the fashion evolution.

It all starts in 19th century with haute couture.

We’re talking exclusive, handcrafted pieces made as industrial methods advances, serialization emerged, and fashion gradually opened up and became accessible to a wider public.

[00:03:00] In 1950s, “ready-to-wear” changes the game. High-quality pieces are now produced in small quantities, off the rack, in standard sizes rather than made to measure, bringing designer fashion to everyday consumers. Think Dior and Yves Saint Laurent.

[00:03:18] Then came fast fashion, exploding in the late 20th century.

And here’s the core problem: fast fashion is cheap, mass-produced, and trendy, but at a huge cost!  It pollutes the planet, drains our water reserves, exploits workers, and encourages a throwaway culture.

[00:03:41] It’s a cycle of overconsumption disguised as affordability and style.

This crisis sparked the rise of sustainable fashion in the early 2000s and three main approaches emerged.

First, there is slow fashion focused on better materials, ethical production and a pace that respects both workers and the planet.

This is all about quality over quantity. Think organic fabrics and non-toxic dyes, with designers like Stella McCartney leading the way.

[00:04:23] Next, we have Recycling. using industrial processes to break textiles down and create new materials. It requires energy use but also allows mass production and large-scale impact.

[00:04:38]  Instead of breaking down materials, upcycling gives existing pieces a new life. A denim jacket can easily become a stylish skirt or a funky bag, all without new fabric or heavy processing. Every piece is unique, full of personality, and a canvas for creative expression

[00:04:59] Upcycling isn’t a new concept you’ll tell me… And you’re right, people have been reinventing clothes for ages, especially during tough times like wars or economic crises. The big difference today is that Environmental awareness drives it, not just necessity.

[00:05:17] In modern Upcycling, it’s about thoughtful design over mass manufacturing and profit, letting artists showcase their creativity, values, and style through this hands-on approach.  Designers like Rebecca Minkoff and countless indie eco-makers are currently shaping the movement.

[00:05:37] Of course, upcycling fashion comes with its challenges. It means small scale, slow production, higher production costs…And since consumers' mindsets haven't totally changed yet, it's still a niche market. As a result, fighting against fast fashion and making a living exclusively through upcycling can be tough for the moment.

[00:06:00] This is why many designers diversify their practice, adding small recycled lines, teaching their philosophy or channeling their vision into stunning art installations. But their commitment stays strong. They know this path matters, and they keep pushing because real change takes time.

 [00:06:19] Like every cultural shift, it starts small, grows quietly, and then one day becomes the “new normal”. They’re convinced upcycling is part of that better future, and they’re helping build it.

Now, let's turn to Sylvia Calvo, a pioneering upcycling artist from Spain who is at the forefront of this transformative movement.

Between two conferences she was giving in Barcelona on Upcycling fashion, Sylvia kindly made time to welcome us into her workshop on the outskirts of the city.

Sylvia Calvo

[00:06:56] I'm Silvia Calvo, I'm from Barcelona, Spain. I'm originally an English philologist and I work for the airlines in the United States. I worked there for 15 years, then came back to Barcelona, worked in the shipping industry and the cement industry,

 [00:07:13] And I realized how the impact that the textile industry and the fashion had on the environment and our society. And decided to investigate, to learn more about it, and end up creating my own project in this sector, always in order to try to bring a solution to the problem that I was seeing, and also created at that time, co-founded the first association of sustainable fashion, Barcelona, the first one in Spain. And that's how I started, trying to make a difference.

Anne Cassuto (Host)

[00:07:54] Driven by a need to protect the environment, Sylvia made a drastic career shift.

Sylvia Calvo

[00:07:59] So I studied circular economy on my own, and then I did some courses in ESADE and the Delft university, so I did the... You know, these courses online to instruct myself and also start learning also from colleagues in different associations. And I liked the subject a lot.

Anne Cassuto (Host)

[00:08:28] Then, while looking for a way to apply her knowledge, something clicked

Sylvia Calvo

[00:08:33] I start from the principle that the most sustainable material is that one that already exists. Coming from this thought, I saw an example of one handbag that was made with waste material from the automation industry, from the seat belts. So I thought, well, I thought it was very challenging to waste material from another, from one industry. That could be a rescue and apply to another industry. So I think that maybe working in the shipping industry, maybe a cargo of coffee came across my screen. And I thought, oh, coffee? Wait a minute, that comes in jute bags. What are they doing with these jute bags?

Anne Cassuto (Host)

[00:09:32] Barcelona being a major shipping hub, a lot of coffee passes through its harbor, even more now that coffee culture is booming, with all the roasters and specialty cafés.

And guess what! Sylvia spotted something big: those jute coffee bags were tossed after just one use. To her, they weren’t trash at all, but an endless source of free, discarded material waiting to be transformed.

Sylvia Calvo

[00:10:04] So I went, took a couple of those as a sample, and then I started playing with them, and I started looking into the properties of the jute material. So it is a biodegradable, natural fiber, it's a very good material for the soil because it regenerates the soil, it oxygenates. So it has a lot of good characteristics. And it's a fiber. My personal challenge was, can I take this material and transform it in a way that I can put it on a catwalk? Am I capable to do that with what I knew?

Anne Cassuto (Host)

[00:10:58] Her grandmother was a couturier for a fine tailor, and she grew up watching her sew.

In a way, stepping into that world felt like coming back to her roots.

Sylvia Calvo

[00:11:08] When it's inside of you, it ends up coming out. And I think I always wanted to learn and always wanted to do something in this area. And at the end, those passions, they flourish.

Anne Cassuto (Host)

[00:11:23] So she put her hearts in leveling up her sewing skills to bring her creations to life.

Sylvia Calvo

[00:11:28] Well, it has been a lot of self-taught, and I took some local workshops here in Castelldefelds, and I think those places of our communities where they give these classes and these workshops for our community, I can prove that they are worth it, that they are of quality and that we have to pay more attention and support to this kind of learning as well because they bring knowledge on different aspects.

Anne Cassuto (Host)

[00:12:10] Blending creativity, the technical skills she had acquired and her drive to give old materials a conscious second life, she started turning these coffee bags into distinctive pieces of clothing.

And by working on purpose with the materials just as they are, she lets each bag’s own character shine, turning them into truly one-of-a-kind pieces

Sylvia Calvo

[00:12:33] Every bag is unique in itself. Even if you take two bags from the same coffee brand, for example, or comparative, you will see that they're not identically the same. For me, that's great. I embrace this uniqueness on the material because we are unique as people. So why should I dress exactly like you if I got something different, you know

Anne Cassuto (Host)

[00:13:06] Driven by curiosity, she recently turned coffee bag fibers into yarn and biodegradable materials, while her main focus is still on reuse, not recycling.

Today, she mostly works solo, but every now and then, she teams up with other artists to mix things up, something she genuinely loves and finds incredibly rewarding.

Sylvia Calvo

[00:13:27] This dress in particular is based on my coffee bag on the back and then it has a centerpiece of organic cotton from Organic Cotton Colors, also here in Girona, and Ivona Francesca paints on top of the organic cotton her original drawing. This one in particular, is a series that we did inspired by Modigliani And it's like wearing art. You wear art, it's art in movement.

Anne Cassuto (Host)

[00:13:59] Working exclusively on demand to avoid overproduction. I ask her what kind of clients she has.

Sylvia Calvo

[00:14:06] My clients, I would say, are the ones that are already very artistic, that they are looking for something different, that are concerned about sustainability, that don't want to follow the mainstream, that want to create a statement also, because think that our clothes speak for ourselves.

[00:14:33] They see some of the models that I've developed and the designs that I develop and then they ask for those designs. And then we customize, “oh but I like this but I liked a little bit shorter, then we do it this way. Or you know I like better with this thing in here, you know, with a change. And then basically I use the designs that I already develop and customize it with what they like.

Anne Cassuto (Host)

[00:14:59] And how exactly does she connect with her customers, you may wonder?

Well, over the years, Sylvia Calvo has become a reference in upcycling fashion in Spain.

Sure, her innovative creations grab attention on social media and on her webpage.

 [00:15:16] Beyond that, she has taken it to another level. She's made it her mission to inspire others and promote sustainable fashion practices through inspiring talks, interactive workshops, comprehensive classes and mentorship for students from around the world.

As a side effect, she now has incredible visibility.

And every time she steps out, always wearing her own creations, she's basically a walking advertisement for upcycling fashion and her brand.

[00:15:47] And just like that, in this natural, authentic way, she attracts the right clients while trying to make the fashion world a better place. She understands that real change won't happen overnight.

Sylvia Calvo

[00:16:00] The economic system is not supporting, I think, this. We talk about a lot of sustainability, circular economy, how we need to change, you know, the way we produce, the way that we consume. From the theory to the practice, there's still a big gap

Anne Cassuto (Host)

[00:16:21] In the meantime, until real transformation happens, she admits making a living from solely upcycled designs can be tricky for small creators, but she keeps fighting, convinced that the steps being taken today are moving in the right direction, and she remains hopeful.

Sylvia Calvo

[00:16:40] There are ways that we can change if we put our mind to work. If we have gone to the moon, can we change the way we produce?

At this moment, we have small brands making a lot of volume. And I think we need to change the system to have lots of brands putting small product out there.

[00:17:09] That will diversify the market. We will give work to much more opportunity, to much people to create. We will give work to much more opportunity to much people to create. We will create more diversity on our clothing, for example. And we as consumers will have more things to choose from without inundating the market of the same item.

Anne Cassuto (Host)

[00:17:45] Having learned a bit more about Sylvia Calvo, it’s time to hear her advice.

For any young creatives hoping to follow a similar path, these are her tips to get started.

The very first thing she insists on is to have a strong sense of direction and know what you’re aiming for. That’s what will keep you going when things get tough, she says.

Sylvia Calvo

[00:18:09] First you need to believe in yourself and have a clear vision of what you wanna do and what is your goal. For example, my goal was to transform a waste material into something nice that could be on top of a catwalk. and I did, you know.

Anne Cassuto (Host)

[00:18:39] Next, Sylvia reminds us how important is to know the basics. For her, it’s essential to understand how to construct your designs from start to finish. Drawing is important of course, but she insists that knowing how to sew, make patterns, and handle materials is what really gives you the power to bring your ideas to life. Without those foundations, she says, your creativity doesn’t have anything solid to stand on.

[00:19:10] Then, she highlights that staying curious and continuously learning is what keeps you moving forward. Even though Sylvia taught herself a lot, she emphasized the value of available training nowadays, workshops, short courses and specialized programs in sustainability and upcycling.

[00:19:28] She even guides you toward places where real learning happens: design schools or specialized masterclasses, like the ones offered at El Ferrol University

Sylvia Calvo

[00:19:39] I know that there's a lot of schools that now they are changing their programs, incorporating sustainability and doing, you know, much more things. Myself, I particularly teach at lCI design school of Barcelona, and I know that from our fashion department, we are doing a lot of things to embrace all these new materials and new processes and upcycling.

Anne Cassuto (Host)

[00:20:11] She also points out how helpful associations can be for learning practical skills. Associations like the Grammy Artista Textil de Catalunya, for example, offer hands-on workshops on textile paintings, serigraphy, recycling wool and weaving.

These experiences give you practical and strategic knowledge that will save time and strengthen your designs.

[00:20:36] For more details on academic programs and resources, don't forget to check out the TTT Green Jobs Training Guide on our website.

[00:20:44] Moving on, Sylvia encourages you to embrace tools and technology to bring your ideas to life in a more efficient and sustainable way.

Sylvia Calvo

[00:20:53] Maybe you want to do some pattern making where you don't throw away waste, where you maximize. actually, there's a technique, zero waste pattern making, and that is a little bit difficult, so maybe now there are softwares that they can help us with that

Anne Cassuto (Host)

[00:21:14] Another key principle for Sylvia is to produce only what’s needed and align her work with demand.

Sylvia Calvo

[00:21:20] If we go into new business models, one of them, it will be not to overproduce. One of the problems is not to be overproduced. So that will be to produce on demand, you know, you have a made-to-order business model. That will be one of the ingredients that I can put on my business.

Anne Cassuto (Host)

[00:21:43] She also encourages direct sales whenever possible. Sending directly to your audience avoids commission and extra costs, while creating a personal connection with your clients.

Finally, Sylvia recommends to capture every idea. She suggests keeping a food for thought drawer or a digital collection, whatever works better for you.

[00:22:06] She reminds us that stressful or relaxed moments can spark creativity, and having a repository of ideas may help you develop them later.

[00:22:22] We've now reached the end of this section.

To quickly summarize Sylvia’s tips for upcycling fashion: Stay true to your mission, master the basics, keep learning, embrace technology, produce consciously, sell directly, and nurture your ideas.

[00:22:38] And most of all, trust that small steps lead to real change. With vision, patience, and passion, you won’t just create fashion… you’ll create impact. And that’s where a better future begins!

[00:23:00] Alright, we’re nearing the end of today’s episode and series of Podcast on Reuse Art and sustainability

Remember that what we often call “waste” might just be the starting point for your next amazing creation. Even the simplest discarded object could inspire something extraordinary.

So, don’t forget to stay connected and keep up with all the projects and stories we’re sharing.

[00:23:24] Check out our podcasts, like and share our social media posts.

Also, make sure to visit our website “trashtotreasure.eu” where you’ll find tons of tips, inspiring blog posts, as well as the TTT GreenJobs Training Guide, a comprehensive document full of information on training opportunities and practical tools. 

[00:23:47] Finally, be sure to register for our Web Desk Service to benefit from a B2B session with one of our team members and receive personalized support and advice

Remember, trash is treasure and the future is as green as the jobs that will shape it!